• Bibliography: list of relevant books used for writing a paper or developing a class. Does not include books read during study which were not used in the paper or class. An annotated bibliography is a list of relevant books including description of the subject of the book and its degree of relevancy/usefulness.
• Drape: the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment. Examples are the soft drape of chiffon as compared to the stiff drape of heavy canvas.
• Extant: the object or garment which was made in the time period studied. These might be grave-goods, items saved from the time period (such as those garments in the Topkapi museum or garments found in church storage) or chance lost/found items recovered by archeological techniques.
• Footnote: identification of source of specific information or quote.
• Finish: qualities of a fabric revealed by sight. Examples are shiny, dull, matt and crinkled.
• Finishing technique: method used to prevent the seams or edges from raveling or fraying. Examples are flat felled, serged, hemmed, narrow rolled and overcast.
• FTSO: the Guild newsletter also known as From the Skin Out.
• Hand: qualities of a fabric revealed through sense of touch. Examples are soft, stiff, rough, smooth.
• Interlining: fabric used between to lining and the outer fabric (optional) of a garment to give it shape or change the weight of the outer fabric. The fabric is against the outer fabric, with the two sewn as one piece. Also called "flatting".
• Lining: fabric, pile fabric, or fur used to finish inside of garment. The extra layer is used for warmth, to retain shape of the outer layer, or for appearance.
• Primary source, for our purposes: something created in the time period such as (but not limited to) paintings, manuscripts, sculpture, extant (still existing) garments, etc. This also includes descriptions written by someone in the time period familiar with the subject. (A tailor describing his process, a lady describing what she has bought, items in inventories, wills, court records, etc. As opposed to a monk describing women's clothing or a 19th century writer/academic describing something from the 16th or something written by a modern person. This type is considered tertiary.)
• Primary source, according to academic circles extant objects/garments only.
• Secondary source: translation of writings from the time period. In academic circles (as opposed to our purposes) this includes paintings, manuscripts and other depictions.
• Silhouette: contour or outline of an ensemble.
• Tertiary source: item drawn/sculpted by someone who has not seen an item (such as woodcuts of Vecellio depicting the people of Florida) or item drawn/sculpted by someone not from the time period (such as Victorian or modern redrawings). This includes redrawings and reproductions of garments.
• Weight: the amount of body which the fabric has. While this is similar to drape, it refers to more than just the hang of the fabric. This is especially important in deciding what (if anything) to use for interlining of a garment. Examples: heavy fabric such as a canvas, medium weight such as trigger, lightweight fabric such as batiste.

Below are the categories mentioned in the challenge requirements. Please note that each category has an emphasis. Listed are just some of the examples that will qualify for each category. If you have something that is not listed but are sure that it would fit into one of the categories, please contact the Education officer or their deputies with the details prior to starting your object.

The point of the category system is to give the candidates a wide variety of choices in how they go about achieving the challenge level.

a) Writing and Teaching
Technical papers such as How To's that are publishable in the FTSO
Historical papers which are publishable in the FTSO
One-on-one teaching or teaching at a local level
Class(es) taught on a Kingdom level, Ithra, or Guild Workshop
Annotated bibliography Book review

b) Garments
Under clothing
Coats/Outerwear
Rectangular constructed garments
Tailored garments
Semi-fitted garments
Textile related armor wear (but not other forms of armor)

c) Accessories
Shoes Gloves
Make-up
Hair
Hats/Head coverings, etc. (but not helms)
Jewelry/Adornment
Icons/reliquaries/prayer beads, etc. (need to be worn on body or made of textiles)
Belts, etc
Bags, Pouches, etc
Stockings, hose, etc
Handkerchiefs, etc Ruffs, muffs, cuffs, etc

d) Other
Classes taken
Banners/decoration
Pavilion/household goods (of a textile nature)
Entering a Kingdom level contest
Animal Barding
Winning local level contest
Guild officer or deputy
Judging a Kingdom/Principality level Costume/Textile contest. Significant time contribution to the Costumer's Guild

No more than 2 entries in the same row or column. Please understand that the chart was developed to encourage the necessary diversity for this level.

British Isles includes England, Scotland (including the various coastal islands), Wales, Cornwall, Ireland, the Isle of Man, the Channel Islands, the Celts, the Picts, the Anglo-Saxons, the Normans in England, the Romano-brits, etc.

France/Low Countries includes France, Belgium, Flanders, the Netherlands, Sardinia, Corsica, the Gauls, the Normans in France, etc. Germanic culture/states includes the various German states, Bavaria, Switzerland, Austria, etc.

The Iberian Peninsula includes Spain (including all its various parts), Portugal, the various countries/cultures of the Pyrenees mountains (including the Basques), the Moors in Spain, etc.

Italian Peninsula includes all of the various city/states (such as Rome, Florence/Tuscany, Venice, Lucca, Naples, etc.), Lombardy, Sicily, etc.

Middle Eastern/North Africa/Nomad includes Byzantium, Egypt, Persia, the Ottoman Empire, Greece, Armenia, Palestine, Arabia, the various countries along Northern Africa, the Scythians, the Khazars, etc.

Scandinavia includes the Vikings, the Saami (Lapps), Sweden, Norway, Finland, Denmark, Greenland, Iceland, etc.

Slavic cultures/Eastern Europe/Russia includes Rumania, Transylvania, Hungary, the Ukraine, Bohemia, Bulgaria, the area which has been considered Yugoslavia, Slovenia, Poland, Russia, the Czech Republic, etc.

Eastern Asia/some Nomad includes Korea, China, Japan, Tibet, the Steppes Nomads, the Mongols, etc.

None of the above is to cover those countries or cultures which are not listed but which might be of interest. It is to make us inclusive without decreasing the focus of diversity in the Journeyman Level.