A: Purpose
B: Requirements
C: Standards
D: Level Emblem
E: Helpful Hints and Important Definitions

To demonstrate in-depth excellence in a single area/time of interest.

a. Teaching/writing
b. Garments
c. Accessories
d. Other (such as service, classes taken, etc.

Workmanship Requirements:

1. The object should demonstrate the proper color, surface design and fabric choice with explanations of substitutions. The challenger should be able to document usage within period.
2. A proper silhouette should be achieved with period cut and construction.
3. Fit and ability to move in the garment should be appropriate to the time period.
4. Finishing techniques used in the object should be appropriate to the time period.
5. Embellishment (or lack thereof) should be appropriate to the time and place of the garment.

Documentation Requirements - Minimums:

1. Photocopies of three relevant primary sources.
2. Type or write a legible three-page summary explaining your project and include list of relevant source materials.

Writing: Challenger must have submitted to the FTSO one of the following (in the same focus as your Scholar's outfit):

1. A costuming or textile related article of 800 words
2. An annotated bibliography of at least 15 books on a specific costuming or textile subject
3. A book review on a costuming or textile art book, totaling approximately 800 words in length

Teaching: teaching one-on-one to a minimum of 5 people, requires a signed letter from the students; OR teaching a class of at least two hours duration to the local level, a Guild workshop or an Ithra class, which requires a copy of the class handout. This needs to cover the same focus area as your Scholar's outfit.

Judging: Judging of a minimum of 12 hours at Kingdom Costumer's Contest or textile/costuming at Kingdom A&S. This may be done over multiple events.

Classes Taken: Must have taken a class on some form of textile arts (title of class, name of teacher, where and when taken required) or class handout. This needs to cover the same focus area as your Scholar's outfit.

Entry: Entry in a Kingdom level costume/embellishment/textile contest requires the year of entry and where the contest was held (if available). This needs to cover the same focus area as your Scholar's outfit.

Significant Time Contribution to the Guild: Requires a note from the officer or deputy you assisted describing the nature and amount of service rendered or other documentation such as the FTSO. A total of 12 hours of assisting in a Guild activity is minimum and may be done over several events.

In addition to previous emblems entitled, the challenger who completes this level is entitled to wear a Lapis Lazuli gem.

To challenge this level you need to make arrangements ahead of the event to arrange for panel members to be available. Please contact the Education Coordinator at to do this.

Keep in mind that you are not required to operate in a vacuum. Feel free to discuss your work with experienced costumers. If you can't find acceptable sources even with that help, please contact the Education Officer or their deputies.

Some examples of a time contribution are: organizing classes and a guild challenge at a particular event. This includes finding teachers and judges, coordinating the schedule with the autocrat, collecting class fees, etc.

Not everything needs to be presented for the level at a single event. In fact, it is certainly permissible to do a single entry at each event.

Once something has been used as an entry, it cannot be submitted again in the Challenges.

If you have a physical impediment that can limit your ability to demonstrate fit and movement while wearing a garment, please have the garment on a person who does not have these impediments so that fit and ability to move can be properly seen. For example, if you cannot walk, have someone model your dress. If you have a lung problem that would prevent you from wearing a corset in a time where corsets are needed to achieve a proper silhouette, have someone model the corset and its dress for you.

For items in which toxic or unobtainable materials were used in period (such as cosmetics), non-toxic or obtainable substitutions should be made. Note: we are trying to achieve the look, not the aftereffects!

Proper cut and construction does not exclude the use of sewing machines or other modern aids, if the appearance is achieved.

Bibliography and footnoting should follow either the MLA Handbook for Writers of Research Papers (Joseph Gibaldi, ISBN 0-87352975-8) or The Chicago Manual of Style (14th Edition, ISBN 0-22610389-7). Examples can also often be found at graduate school web-sites.

Some examples of selections done by previous entrants:

• Person A: Outfit: 1540 English Noblewoman, judged 12th Night Costume Contest (15+ hours), wrote Medieval and Renaissance Colors and Fabrics (4 hour class), taught 16th Century underwear (full weekend workshop), garment: 1540 English corset, garment: 1540 English dress, garment: embroidered 1540 woman's chemise, accessory: 1540 French Hood, accessory: 1540 woman's gloves, accessory: 1540 woman's shoes, took Introduction to Goldwork from Mistress Asha, took Survey of Renaissance Needlework, service: served as Education Officer's deputy, taught Tudor Costuming (4 hours), taught Construction of a men's shirt from 1540 (4 hours), accessory: Lettice cap of 1540.