- Bibliography: A list of relevant books used for writing documentation or developing a class. A bibliography does not include books read during study which were not used in the document or class. An annotated bibliography is a list of relevant books including a description of the subject of the book and its degree of relevance or usefulness.
- Drape: the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment. Examples are the soft drape of handkerchief weight linen as compared to the stiff drape of heavy linen canvas.
- Extant: the object or garment which was made in the time period studied. These might be grave-goods, items saved from the time period, for example in a church or private residence, or chance lost and found items recovered by individuals or by professional archeologists.
- Footnote: identification of the source of specific information or a quote.
- Finish: qualities of a fabric revealed by sight. Examples are shiny, dull, matt and crinkled.
- Finishing technique: method used to prevent the seams or edges from raveling or fraying. Examples are flat felled, hemmed, narrow rolled, and overcast.
- FTSO: the Guild newsletter known as From the Skin Out.
- Hand: qualities of a fabric revealed through sense of touch. Examples are soft, stiff, rough, smooth.
- Interlining: fabric used between the lining and the outer fabric of a garment to give it shape or change the weight of the outer fabric. The interlining fabric is placed against the outer fabric, with the two sewn as one piece. Also called flatting.
- Lining: fabric or fur used to finish the inside of a garment. The extra layer is used for warmth, to retain shape of the outer layer, or for appearance.
- Primary source for the Costumers Guild purposes: something created in the time period, such as extant garments and accessories, paintings, manuscripts, sculpture, etc. This also includes descriptions written by someone in the time period familiar with the subject, for example, a tailor describing his process, a lady describing what she has bought, items in inventories, wills, court records, etc. A primary source according to academic circles is the extant object only.
- Secondary source for the Costumers Guild purposes: modern translations of manuscripts, letters, inventories, etc. from the time period. This also includes the description or drawing of an extant item by someone familiar with the subject, for example, museum conservation notes for a 14th century shoe. In academic circles, a secondary source includes paintings, manuscripts, and other depictions.
- Silhouette: contour or outline of a garment or accessory.
- Tertiary source: an item drawn, painted, or sculpted by someone who has not seen the original item, such as woodcuts of Vecellio depicting the people of Florida, or a Victorian era painting of a 16th century marketplace. This also includes modern redrawings that illustrate elements common to a time period, for example, a sketch of a “typical” coathardie.
- Weight: the amount of body in the fabric. While this is similar to drape, it refers to more than just the hang of the fabric. This is especially important in deciding what, if anything, to use for interlining of a garment. Examples: heavy fabric such as a canvas, medium weight such as suit wool, and lightweight fabric such as handkerchief linen.
The purpose of the category system is to provide the candidates with a wide variety of choices for achieving the challenge level. The items listed in each category are the primary examples. If you want to do or have done something that is not listed and are not sure that it would fit into one of the categories, please contact the Guilds section of the An Tir Arts and Sciences web page for information.. Note that all garments and accessories entered in the Costumers Guild challenges must worn by a human being. Items such as animal barding, woven textiles for use in the home, a lace sampler, etc. are applicable to achievement activities in other Kingdom Guilds, such as the Hunt Guild, the Weavers and Spinners Guild, etc. See the
Writing and Teaching
Sharing your knowledge, skills, and research is an important element of the challenge process. Teaching and writing benefit both the challenger and their readers and students, as well fulfulling one of the core functions of the SCA - Education. The requirements of the writing and teaching category vary according to the level being challenged. See the information for the different levels: [Junior Student], [Senior Student], [Journeyman], and [Scholar].
The garment category consists of the following items:
- Under clothing
- Coats and outerwear
- Rectangular constructed garments
- Tailored garments
- Semi-fitted garments
- Garments worn with armor, such as gambesons and surcotes
The accessories category consists of items are worn with a garment, including the following:
- Make-up and Hair styling
- Hats, hoods, veils, and other head coverings
- Icons, reliquaries, prayer beads, etc. that are worn on the body
- Purses, bags, and pouches that are worn or carried on the body
- Stockings and hose
- Collars, ruffs, muffs, and cuffs
The Other category includes the following:
- Classes taken that are related to Costumes and Accessories
- Entering a costume or accesory in a Kingdom, Principality, Baronial, or Shire level contest
- Judging a Kingdom, Principality, Baronial, or Shire level contest where costumes and accessories are entered. Requirements vary by level.
- Significant time contribution to the Costumer's Guild, such as serving as an Officer, running a Contest, or coordinating a track of costume-related classes at an event
Country/Culture and Century Table
No more than 2 entries may be in the same row or column for Journeyman.
All entries must be in the same Country/Culture and Century for Scholar.
Location and Culture
|France and the Low Countries|
|Middle Eastern/North Africa/ Greece|
|Slavic Cultures/Eastern Europe/ Russia|
|Other/None of the above|
British Isles includes England, Scotland (including the various coastal islands), Wales, Cornwall, Ireland, the Isle of Man, the Channel Islands, the Celts, the Picts, the Anglo-Saxons, the Normans in England, the Romano-brits, etc.
France/Low Countries includes France, Belgium, Flanders, the Netherlands, Sardinia, Corsica, the Gauls, the Normans in France, etc. Germanic culture/states includes the various German states, Bavaria, Switzerland, Austria, etc.
The Iberian Peninsula includes Spain (including all its various parts), Portugal, the various countries/cultures of the Pyrenees mountains (including the Basques), the Moors in Spain, etc.
Italian Peninsula includes all of the various city/states (such as Rome, Florence/Tuscany, Venice, Lucca, Naples, etc.), Lombardy, Sicily, etc.
Middle Eastern/North Africa/Nomad includes Byzantium, Egypt, Persia, the Ottoman Empire, Greece, Armenia, Palestine, Arabia, the various countries along Northern Africa, the Scythians, the Khazars, etc.
Scandinavia includes the Vikings, the Saami (Lapps), Sweden, Norway, Finland, Denmark, Greenland, Iceland, etc.
Slavic Ccultures/Eastern Europe/Russia includes Rumania, Transylvania, Hungary, the Ukraine, Bohemia, Bulgaria, the area which has been considered Yugoslavia, Slovenia, Poland, Russia, the Czech Republic, etc.
Eastern Asia/some Nomad includes Korea, China, Japan, Tibet, the Steppes Nomads, the Mongols, etc.
None of the above is to cover those countries or cultures which are not listed but which might be of interest. It is to make us inclusive without decreasing the focus of diversity in the Journeyman Level.
Please contact the Challenges Coordinator if you have any questions.